The 1920s marked a revolutionary era in fashion, blending style with newfound freedom of movement. This decade, often called the “Roaring Twenties,” saw the emergence of clothing that not only emphasized beauty but also allowed women to embrace an active, liberated lifestyle.
Louise Brooks: A Fashion Icon of the 1920s
Louise Brooks, a symbol of the era’s bold fashion, epitomized the spirit of the 1920s with her fierce demeanor and distinctive style. Even nearly a century after the Roaring Twenties, the fashion of that time remains instantly recognizable:
- Cloche Hats
- Flapper Dresses
- Influential fashion designers
- Art Deco-Inspired Evening Wear
- High-heeled shoes
- Costumes and intricate jewelry
- Men’s Suits and Sportswear
The Evolution of 1920s Fashion
Fashion in the 1920s was a direct reflection of the societal changes following World War I. As society rapidly progressed, so did fashion, embodying the ideas, technology, and lifestyles of the time. Coco Chanel famously said, “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street; fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, and what is happening.”
The 1920s brought a significant departure from the restrictive styles of the Victorian era. Society, now moving at a faster pace with innovations like airplanes and automobiles, demanded fashion that could keep up. Women, no longer willing to sacrifice mobility for outdated traditions, abandoned cumbersome corsets and crinolines in favor of more practical attire. Hemlines rose dramatically, with dresses evolving from mid-calf in the early 1920s to just below the knee by 1925.
The Liberated Woman and the Fashion of the Roaring Twenties
The 1920s were an era of liberation, particularly for women. In 1920, American women won the right to vote, and the same year saw the introduction of Prohibition. These social shifts influenced fashion and gave rise to the era’s most infamous figures, from flappers to gangsters, who dominated the nightclub scene. The nightlife of the Roaring Twenties, characterized by jazz music, dancing, and a spirit of defiance, remains iconic.
At the end of World War I, a generation was scarred by unprecedented violence. This “Flaming Youth” embraced a “live for today” mentality, epitomized by the words of journalist Lois Long: “Tomorrow we may die, so let’s get drunk and make love.”
The Changing Silhouette: Dresses of the 1920s
The 1920s saw a dramatic transformation in women’s dress silhouettes. Contrary to popular belief, dresses were not short throughout the entire decade. Hemlines rose gradually, reaching knee-length by 1925. The waistline also descended, moving from just below the bust in 1920 to the hips by 1922. Daytime dresses became more relaxed and less form-fitting, with loose sleeves and flowing lines.
Floral prints in soft pastels like Nile Green, Sunset Orange, French Blue, and Maze became staples in women’s fashion, reflecting the era’s elegance.
Evening Wear: Glamour and Elegance
Evening dresses of the 1920s mirrored the prosperity of the time. With elaborate materials, intricate beading, and luxurious accessories, these dresses highlighted the wealth and sophistication of the wearer. Though similar in structure to daytime dresses, evening wear distinguished itself through its opulent fabrics and embellishments.
Prominent designers like Jeanne Lanvin, who created the iconic “robe de style” often in her signature Lanvin Blue, along with Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, and others, became the stars of 1920s fashion. This period also saw the rise of Art Deco fashion, characterized by sharp, angular lines and vibrant colors.
The Cloche Hat: A Defining Accessory of the 1920s
Perhaps the most iconic accessory of the 1920s was the cloche hat. Introduced by French milliner Caroline Reboux around 1923, the cloche (French for “bell”) quickly became a staple of women’s fashion. Made from various materials like velvet, satin, and felt, the cloche hat allowed women to stylishly tuck away their hair. Variations, like the gigolo hat, added flair with wider brims and asymmetrical designs.
The “Boyish” Look and Its Impact on Fashion
The flapper look, often associated with a more “boyish” aesthetic, is said to have started when Coco Chanel donned a man’s sweater and cinched it at the waist. This simple act sparked a fashion revolution as women began to adopt more masculine styles, challenging traditional notions of femininity. The “la garçonne” style became synonymous with the era as women embraced smoking, drinking, driving, and even wearing men’s clothing.
However, not all 1920s fashion was androgynous. While Chanel’s designs introduced a masculine influence, Madeleine Vionnet’s creations celebrated the female form, revolutionizing modern women’s fashion with flowing, elegant dresses.
Men’s Fashion: The Influence of Hollywood Icons
Men’s fashion in the 1920s also underwent a transformation, heavily influenced by Hollywood stars like Rudolph Valentino, Douglas Fairbanks, Al Jolson, and Charlie Chaplin. As cities expanded and the business class grew, men transitioned from the practical overalls of rural life to tailored suits that reflected their new urban lifestyles.
The Roaring Twenties remain a defining moment in fashion history, a period where style became synonymous with the freedom and exuberance of a rapidly changing society.