The 1920s was a decade that defined an era of opulence and danger, where silk suits, diamond rings, guns, alcohol, and women became symbols of the gangster lifestyle. This period saw the birth of a cultural phenomenon that still influences modern perceptions of gangsters as icons of cool—whether for better or worse.
In the eyes of the public, the 1920s gangster and bootlegger lifestyle, living “above the law,” represented more than just crime; it embodied wealth, fame, luxury, and power. The allure of this lifestyle, with its stylish clothes, fast cars, and extravagant homes, continues to captivate audiences today.
Books and films about gangsters often romanticize this era, immersing readers and viewers in the intrigue of the criminal underworld and its code of honor, creating a lasting legacy that has shaped our collective imagination.
The Evolution of Gangster Fashion in the 1920s and ’30s
High-quality suits and expensive accessories were as integral to a gangster’s identity in the 1920s as they are today. Though the term “haute couture” might not have been in their vocabulary, these gangsters were undeniably fashion-forward.
Gangsters of the 1920s, known for their meticulous attention to style, often dressed in suits from renowned brands like Brooks Brothers (American), Brioni (Italian), or Gieves and Hawkes (English). These suits were more than just clothing—they were a statement of power and prestige.
Al Capone, perhaps the most infamous gangster of all time, was also one of the best-dressed. His typical attire included a luxurious blue suit, a crisp white silk handkerchief, pearl gray spats, and a diamond-studded platinum watch chain. Capone’s fashion choices were as deliberate as his criminal activities, reinforcing his image as a powerful and untouchable figure.
The rise of gangster culture
The 1920s were teeming with notorious figures who not only made headlines for their criminal activities but also for their distinctive fashion sense.
Among the most famous gangsters of the 1920s were “Scarface” Al Capone, “Lucky” Luciano, “Bugs” Moran (also known as Jack “Legs” Diamond), and “Dutch” Schultz. The 1930s brought the likes of “Pretty Boy” Floyd and “Babyface” Nelson, while the 1940s introduced “Bugsy” Siegal. In more recent history, notorious figures include John “The Teflon Don” Gotti and Salvatore “Sammy the Bull” Gravano.
Each of these infamous gangsters had a nickname that was as distinctive as their fine suits, further enhancing their larger-than-life personas. It’s important to note that the image of the gangster, as seen by the American public, was heavily influenced by mass media, which often portrayed these criminals as stylish anti-heroes.
The iconic gangster suit
The tailored suit was the cornerstone of a gangster’s uniform, symbolizing both power and respectability.
In his influential book Inventing the Public Enemy: The Gangster in American Culture, David E. Ruth describes the 1920s gangster as a figure deeply invested in his image:
“The latest styles marketed the gangster as an avid consumer who invested the time and expense necessary to stay on the leading edge of fashion… his new automobile, his tastefully furnished apartment, his diamond stickpin, his two diamond rings, his belt buckle… fifty suits of clothes, his twenty-five pairs of shoes.”
This level of extravagance was not just about appearances; it was a crucial part of the gangster’s persona, reinforcing his status and influence in society.
The American Dream: The Birth of the Criminal Businessman
The passage of Prohibition in 1919 marked a significant turning point in the way gangsters conducted their business. Gone were the days of crude street robberies; in their place, a more sophisticated, organized crime network emerged.
Prohibition opened the doors to lucrative opportunities for gangsters, who quickly capitalized on the demand for illegal alcohol. Bootlegging became a booming business, with some gangsters making millions annually by supplying beer and liquor to speakeasies across the nation.
These gangsters didn’t just rely on brute force; they cultivated fear and respect within their communities, extracting profits through organized extortion and other illicit activities. By infiltrating neighborhoods in cities like Chicago, Detroit, and New York, these criminal masterminds solidified their presence in urban culture, giving rise to the true criminal businessman.
Gangsters as Icons of the American Dream
The Godfather trilogy is perhaps the most iconic representation of the “American Dream” achieved through crime. Vito Corleone, the central figure, arrives in America with nothing, struggles through legitimate means, and then builds an empire through his criminal enterprise. His success, achieved through cunning, organization, and ruthless determination, mirrors the aspirations of many seeking the American Dream.
In the 1920s, gangsters became symbols of the self-made man, expanding their operations into illegal markets like racketeering, bootlegging, and prostitution. They lived by a strict, albeit shadowy, code of ethics, operating outside the constraints of the law.
The rise of 1920s gangster fashion in the public consciousness owes much to Prohibition and the media’s fascination with these criminal celebrities. Even today, the modern gangster remains the ultimate consumer of luxury, with jewelry, suits, cars, and homes as the visible spoils of their illicit lifestyle.